The Black Tie Dress Code for Men, Explained

Black tie is the most rule-bound dress code most men will meet. Here's exactly what it asks for, what it forgives, and what never to wear.

Words: The Tramps team
Reading time: Six minutes

What makes black tie interesting is that it’s a uniform. Everyone is wearing broadly the same thing, so the difference between looking good and looking borrowed is entirely in the fit and the details. That’s what this guide is about.

What does black tie mean?

Black tie is the evening dress code one step below white tie, the most formal there is. It began as the less formal alternative to the tailcoat and became the standard for galas, balls, formal weddings, awards nights and the grander end of corporate dinners.

When an invitation says black tie, the host is asking every man to wear a dinner suit. Not a dark business suit, not a suit with a black long tie: a dinner suit and a bow tie.

The black tie dress code, piece by piece

The jacket

Black is the default. Midnight navy is the connoisseur’s alternative: under artificial light it can read darker and richer than black, which is exactly why it became popular. The lapels are faced in satin or grosgrain and come in two styles:

Peak lapels: sharp, formal and slightly more commanding.
Shawl collar: a smooth, rounded lapel with a little old-Hollywood ease.

A notch lapel is a business-suit detail; on a dinner jacket it’s acceptable but the least formal option. Single-breasted with one button is the classic. Double-breasted is correct too, and suits taller frames.

The trousers

They match the jacket and traditionally carry a stripe of satin or braid down the outside leg. They’re designed to be worn without a belt, with side adjusters or braces instead, so the waist stays clean under the jacket.

The shirt

White, with a turn-down collar and double (French) cuffs for cufflinks. Look for a pleated or marcella front, and a concealed placket or shirt studs. A standard business shirt will pass in a pinch, but a proper dress shirt is what makes the outfit look intended. Keep the cufflinks simple: silver, gold or black onyx.

The bow tie

Black, in a fabric that matches your lapels: satin with satin, grosgrain with grosgrain. A self-tie bow tie is the real thing and looks it, because it’s never perfectly symmetrical. Pre-tied is fine if you’ve never learned; just choose one that’s sized to your collar.

The waist

Traditionally a cummerbund (pleats facing up) or a low-cut evening waistcoat covers the waistband. Plenty of men now go without, particularly with a single-button jacket worn done up. If you’re wearing braces, a waistcoat or cummerbund keeps them out of sight when the jacket is open.

The shoes and socks

Black patent leather oxfords, or plain black oxfords polished to a high shine. Black, fine, over-the-calf socks so no leg shows when you sit. Explore our formal shoes with the dinner suit on; the trouser length should just break on the shoe.

The finishing touches

A white pocket square, folded flat or simply. A slim dress watch on a leather strap, or none at all. That’s the whole list. Black tie rewards restraint.

Black tie isn’t about standing out. It’s about being the best-dressed version of the same outfit in the room.

Black tie optional, black tie preferred and creative black tie

Invitations increasingly soften the code, and each version means something slightly different.

Black tie optional: the host will be in black tie and you’re welcome to be too. If you don’t own a dinner suit, a well-cut dark suit in charcoal, navy or black with a white shirt and a dark, plain silk tie is acceptable.
Black tie preferred: a firmer nudge. Wear a dinner suit if you possibly can.
Creative black tie: the dinner-suit framework with some personality: a velvet jacket, a patterned bow tie, a dinner jacket in a deep colour.

If you’re unsure, err towards the dinner suit. Nobody has ever been the only man in black tie and regretted it.

What not to wear to a black tie event

The quickest way to get the black tie dress code wrong is to treat it like a business dinner. Avoid:

A long necktie with a dinner suit. Black tie means a bow tie.
A business suit at strict black tie. If the invitation doesn’t say optional, the suit stays home.
Brown shoes, or any shoe that isn’t black. Including boots and loafers with a strict code.
A belt. The trousers should be held up by adjusters or braces.
A button-down collar or a patterned shirt. White, plain, with double cuffs.
Short socks. One flash of shin when you sit undoes the whole look.
Too many accessories. One watch, simple cufflinks, a white pocket square. Stop there.

Black tie in an Australian summer

Black tie was written for northern winters, and an outdoor function in February on the South Coast is a different proposition. A few ways to stay correct and comfortable:

Choose a lighter-weight wool and a half-lined or unstructured jacket.
A white or ivory dinner jacket worn with black dress trousers is the long-established warm-weather alternative. Keep everything else the same.
Skip the waistcoat and wear a single-button jacket done up.
Go a size easier in the collar if you’re between sizes. A strangled neck by 9pm helps nobody.

Buying a dinner suit: what to look for

If black tie comes up more than once or twice a year, owning a dinner suit beats scrambling every time. A few things separate a good one from a costume:

The cloth. A fine, smooth wool in true black or midnight navy. It should look matte beside the lapels, so the facing provides the contrast.
The facing. Satin or grosgrain on the lapels, the buttons and the trouser stripe, all matching. Shiny polyester facing is the giveaway of a cheap jacket.
The cut. Close through the waist, clean through the shoulder. A dinner jacket is meant to look sharp, so it can be a touch trimmer than your business suit.
Versatility. A black dinner suit with a shawl or peak lapel will carry you through weddings, galas and awards nights for years. Keep it classic and it never dates.

Look after it the way you would any good tailoring: brush it after wearing, hang it on a shaped hanger, and let it rest between outings.

Fit is the whole point

Because everyone is in the same outfit, fit is what you’ll be judged on. The jacket should sit cleanly across the shoulders with no ripple below the collar. Sleeves should show about a centimetre of shirt cuff. The trousers should be hemmed with little or no break, so they fall straight onto the shoe.

That’s why it’s worth trying a dinner suit on with the shirt and shoes you’ll actually wear. Have a look at our suits and the black tie edit, then book a fitting at Wollongong Mall and we’ll make sure it sits exactly right.

You asked

Questions from the floor

Can I wear a black suit to a black tie event?

Only if the invitation says black tie optional. A black business suit isn’t a dinner suit: the lapels, trousers and fabric are different, and it shows next to the real thing.

Is a tuxedo the same as a dinner suit?

Yes. Tuxedo is the American name; dinner suit is the traditional Australian and British one. Both mean the same outfit.

Can I wear a long tie with a tuxedo?

Not for black tie. A long black tie with a dinner suit is a modern fashion look, but the black tie dress code calls for a bow tie.

What colour dinner suit is acceptable?

Black or midnight navy for classic black tie. A white or ivory dinner jacket is the traditional warm-weather option, and a velvet jacket in a deep colour suits creative black tie.