The Black Tie Dress Code for Men, Explained
Black tie is the most rule-bound dress code most men will meet. Here's exactly what it asks for, what it forgives, and what never to wear.
Words · The Tramps teamUpdated ·
Quick answer
What does black tie mean for men?
Black tie means a dinner suit, which Australians also call a tuxedo: a black or midnight navy jacket with satin or grosgrain lapels, matching trousers with a side stripe, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie and polished black shoes.
It sits one step below white tie. A dark business suit with a long tie isn’t black tie, unless the invitation says black tie optional.
- The jacket Black or midnight navy, satin or grosgrain lapels
- The trousers Matching, with a stripe down the leg
- The shirt White, with double cuffs
- The bow tie Black, matching the lapels
- The shoes Black patent, or black polished to a shine
01 · Where it sits
What does black tie mean?
One step below white tie, and the standard for galas, balls, formal weddings, awards nights and upscale corporate dinners.
It began as the less formal alternative to the tailcoat. If an invitation says black tie, it means a dinner suit and bow tie, not a dark business suit or a long tie.
Most formal
White tie
A tailcoat, with a white bow tie and waistcoat.
This guide
Black tie
A dinner suit and a black bow tie.
Black tie optional
A dinner suit, or a dark suit with a plain dark tie.
Cocktail or semi formal
A suit and tie. Decoded
Least formal
Smart casual
A suit without a tie, or a blazer and tailored trousers.
02 · The dinner suit, piece by piece
What do you wear to a black tie event?
A dinner jacket and matching trousers, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie, a cummerbund or waistcoat if you like, and black shoes with fine black socks.
The jacket
Black is the default; midnight navy can look richer under artificial light. Single-breasted with one button is the classic. Double-breasted is also correct, and suits taller frames.
●●●
Peak lapel
Sharp and formal
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Shawl lapel
Smooth and rounded
●○○
Notch lapel
A business-suit detail: allowed, least formal
The trousers
They match the jacket, with a satin or braid stripe down the outer leg. No belt: they’re held up by side adjusters or braces.
The shirt
White, with a turn-down collar and double (French) cuffs, and a pleated or marcella front with a hidden placket or shirt studs. A plain white business shirt will pass in a pinch. Keep cufflinks simple: silver, gold or black onyx. Shop cufflinks
The bow tie
Black, in a fabric that matches the lapels: satin with satin, grosgrain with grosgrain. Self-tie is the real thing; pre-tied is fine if it’s sized to your collar.
The waist
Traditionally a cummerbund, pleats facing up, or a low-cut evening waistcoat. Many men now go without, especially in a one-button jacket worn done up. Either one hides braces when the jacket is open.
Shoes and socks
Black patent oxfords, or plain black oxfords polished to a high shine. Fine black over-the-calf socks, so no leg shows when you sit. The trousers should just touch the shoe, with little or no break. Shop formal shoes
The finishing touches
A white pocket square, folded flat or simply. A slim dress watch on a leather strap, or none at all.
Black tie isn’t about standing out. It’s about being the best-dressed version of the same outfit in the room.
03 · Reading the invitation
What do black tie optional, preferred and creative mean?
Optional means a dark suit is fine; preferred means wear the dinner suit; creative means the dinner suit with some personality. If you’re unsure, wear the dinner suit.
A dark suit is fine
Black tie optional
The hosts will be in black tie, and you’re welcome to be too. Without a dinner suit, wear a well-cut charcoal, navy or black suit, a white shirt and a dark, plain silk tie.
Wear the dinner suit
Black tie preferred
A firmer nudge towards the dinner suit. Take the hint.
With personality
Creative black tie
The dinner suit as the framework, with some personality: a velvet jacket, a patterned bow tie, or a deep-coloured dinner jacket.
Not sure? Wear the dinner suit. No one is underdressed in one.
04 · Leave at home
What should you not wear to a black tie event?
A long tie, a business suit at a strict black tie, brown shoes and a belt are the usual mistakes.
Keep accessories to three: one watch, simple cufflinks and a white pocket square.
- A long necktie
- A business suit, unless the invitation says optional
- Brown shoes, or boots and loafers under a strict code
- A belt
- A button-down collar or a patterned shirt
- Short socks
05 · Black tie in an Australian summer
How do you wear black tie in the heat?
Lighter-weight wool, a half-lined or unstructured jacket, and no waistcoat.
- Choose lighter-weight wool and a half-lined or unstructured jacket.
- Skip the waistcoat and wear a one-button jacket done up.
- Between collar sizes? Go one size easier.
The warm-weather alternative
A white or ivory dinner jacket, with black dress trousers
The traditional choice for black tie in hot weather, and the rest of the code stays the same: white shirt, black bow tie, black shoes.
06 · Buying a dinner suit
What should you look for in a dinner suit?
Fine, smooth wool in black or midnight navy, matching satin or grosgrain facings, and a clean, close cut.
If black tie comes up more than once or twice a year, owning one beats scrambling.
Cloth
Fine, smooth wool
True black or midnight navy, matte beside the lapels.
Facing
All matching
Satin or grosgrain on the lapels, buttons and stripe. Shiny polyester gives a cheap jacket away.
Cut
Close and clean
Close through the waist, clean through the shoulder: a little trimmer than a business suit.
Lasts
Years of nights
A black dinner suit with a shawl or peak lapel sees out weddings, galas and awards nights.
Care
Brush, hang, rest
Brush it after wearing, keep it on a shaped hanger, and let it rest between outings.
07 · Fit is the whole point
How should a dinner suit fit?
Clean across the shoulders, about a centimetre of shirt cuff showing, and trousers with little or no break.
Off the rack, a dinner suit can be altered to fit in 3 to 7 days.
- Shoulders Sit cleanly, with no ripple below the collar.
- Sleeves About a centimetre of shirt cuff showing.
- Trousers Just touching the shoe, with little or no break.
- Try it on With the shirt and shoes you’ll wear on the night.
Questions from the floor
Black tie: you asked
What we’re asked most before a gala, a ball or a formal wedding.
Can I wear a black suit to a black tie event?
Only if the invitation says black tie optional. A business suit differs from a dinner suit in its lapels, trousers and cloth.
Is a tuxedo the same as a dinner suit?
Yes. Tuxedo is the American word; dinner suit is the traditional Australian and British term.
Can I wear a long tie with a tuxedo?
Not for black tie. The code calls for a black bow tie.
What colour dinner suit is acceptable?
Black or midnight navy for classic black tie, a white or ivory jacket for warm weather, and deep-coloured velvet for creative black tie.
Do I need a cummerbund?
No. It’s traditional but optional, and a one-button jacket worn done up covers the waist.
What shoes do you wear with black tie?
Black patent oxfords, or plain black oxfords polished to a high shine. Not brown shoes, and not boots or loafers under a strict code.
Do you wear a belt with a dinner suit?
No. Dinner suit trousers are held up by side adjusters or braces.
What does black tie optional mean?
A dinner suit is welcome, but a well-cut charcoal, navy or black suit with a white shirt and a dark, plain tie is fine too.
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